Open Studio: SIMON PORTE JACQUEMUS
It’s time to introduce a new series here on Novembre’s blog. Over the next few weeks, we will be interviewing a young designer to find out more about his/her work, as well as photographing his studio.
Let’s start this week with Simon Porte Jacquemus, the young man behind Jacquemus.
Hi Simon! Did you always want to be a fashion designer?
I always wanted to do it, just like someone who wants to be a doctor or a baker… it was my calling!
How did you get into fashion?
I did my BAC and following that I came to Paris to study. 3 months later I lost my mother and I took a 6 month break from school to assist an artistic director at a magazine. After that I decided to launch my own clothing line.
How would you describe the Jacquemus aesthetic?
Raw/ ultra simple/ uniform.
There’s a rawness, a simplicity and strength to the clothes. Each season, I try to create accessible clothes that everyone can wear. But most of all I want to be genuine. For me, it comes from a sort of boredom, which pushes you to create. A jacket without buttons or pockets or an entire collection made from only one material… It goes beyond minimalism. I like to imagine a woman who dresses in the same way everyday, simply and in faded colours – that’s what really excites me.
How do you identify with women’s needs when you’re designing?
I haven’t really thought about that before. I guess I make wearable clothes which are simple to wear.
What inspires you?
There’s a little bit of everything in my collections: my family, my mother, the south of France, the countryside, uniforms… There’s also something very raw and almost dirty about the clothes… Each collection tells a different story but I keep going back to the same references again and again, adding new things as I go.
Can you tell me about your design process?
I imagine a film, then I create the costumes for it…
Caroline de Maigret modeled for your spring/summer 2012 lookbook. How did that come about?
Caroline was an obvious choice. The first time I saw her, she reminded me of my mother. I sent her a message on facebook and surprisingly she got back to me! Then we met up and she agreed to model for me.
Do you have any other fashion icons?
My mother.
What essentials should the Jacquemus woman have in her wardrobe?
Every woman should have an oversized jacket, an oversized tunic and a cropped jumper.
Tell me a little bit about your new collection.
For my fourth collection I found new sources of inspiration and a new story to tell. All the clothes are made out of linen in white, lavander, navy, black & red; I imagined the story of a lonely women, tired of men, who dedicates her life to dogs.
It’s inspired by nurses’ and nuns’ uniforms, which are radical and strict. I chose just 5 colors and 5 different styles of dresses. I think the idea of repetition that you get with uniforms is a very strong idea.
I also wanted my dresses to look very old, like the kinds of dresses your grandmother would wear, clothes which tell a story…
What’s the best thing about being a designer?
I love creating a story and a character. Not following trends but just doing what I really love.
Which other brands inspire you?
Comme des Garçons / Martin Margiela / Raf Simons
How do you see your career evolving?
I would like to consult for other brands. And keep doing what I’m doing with Jacquemus.
Next adventures?
Films, collections, meetings…
Jacquemus‘ collections can be found at the following addresses:
Gago (Aix en Provence), Dover Street Market (London), Maria Luisa (Hong Kong), April Hugues (New York), Opening Ceremony (New York), Tomorrowland/Super A Market (Tokyo), Mathmatics (Atsugi), Shroom (Kagoshima), Gigina (Fukuoka), Bloodorange (Sydney), Kari Kari (Zurich), Auzmendi (San Sebastien)
words by Alexandra Rhodes
pictures by Pauline Magnenat
